5e? 6a minimum not much price difference. We all already running multigig to AP’s. Really go with a recessed and keystones with smurf tube back to your wiring closet.

Where are the TV’s and displays. They need some Cat6a as well. Data and don’t forget hdmi over twisted pair.

22/2 for Door/Window sensors why not /4 in case you need a second contact run or something powered. I did conduit to the window and doors it’s an easy place to access already used one to get an extra camera run. Takes care of the power shades as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Z-Wave-Enabled/dp/B003D08BIC?th=1

zwave or wifi and will work without a c wire.

All of the google nest line.

There are countless smart thermostats that can do this with getting into hacking dry contact relays in parallel.

555 are pretty old school we were doing this sort of thing in the 80’s.

Considering the cost of a esp32 that can do this and much much more for as many devices you can have near it not really seeing the value here before learning 80’s EE.

In general underfloor heating should not be set back, it works so well because of the thermal mass but also means it can take forever to change.

From the looks of it Heatmiser Slimline V3 are mains powered and can easily control a valve which is all you need with a district heat supply.

Ambiente thermostats as similar.

Use a hub (home assistant is popular) use devices that talk only to that hub.

the security model is not perfect but it’s a lot better than the norm.

Google hub, just forget this get a real hub dont be stuck in an ecosystem. Home Assistant is the free one that is generaly suggested.

HS220 Don’t get wifi for anything you have any other choice for. These are things the should still be around and working in 25+ years. I suggest z wave, zigbee, or thread/matter here. Even sooner how long do you think TP-link can be trusted to keep thing’s going they have allready broken the local API once.

Aqara door/window sensors, why on a new build would you use these battery powered ugly things? Hard wire cheap alarm sensors it cost me next to nothing to do when I built last year. It’s trivial to integrate the real UL listed alarm so you get money off your homeowners and alarm.com etc can monitor it for a few bucks.

Reolink is fine suggest using frigate for the NVR to get all the ai object detection, just mke sure to wire them all.

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As to outside lighting I love having dimmers on my exterior lights lets them work with the accent lights to give me plenty of light for a party but also having the WTF is that out in the woods insta daylight.

Locks are pretty easy to bypass.

Are you willing to trust your company on a Chinese app and servers? They can go away in an instant you should be looking for things with local API’s.

All it’s doing is a smartcl -a to each device. It works fine on my 3 HBA’s all SAS2008

You can change the command it uses for smartctl via the config, -d sat may be needed.

Home Assistant is pretty simple, so is homeseer. If you just want voice command on/off alexa/google is fine. Anything more than that get a real hub so your not stuck with something else.

These are all things less complicated using a hotkey on the PC than getting HA back into it. You can do it either way just less of a pita.

Any proper hub can do the awake/asleep most have some form of PC integration. Amazon/apple/google pretty much exist to push product none of them have much power behind them integrate with a real hub home assistant runs fine on a 1g pi 3.

Why a button for movie mode? You can read the status of your streaming to see if it’s a movie playing even get theming information.

They are meant to be blowing all the time. They gain efficiency by constantly putting out a little bit of heat not big on/off swings.

You seem to be working on the assumption that max on is the most efficient this is not typicaly the case https://www.solutionsforair.com/dayton_content/pdfs/FanCurves.pdf fan designs have optimal ranges on high is not typicaly optimal air moved vs energy expended.

Heat pumps a do not get as hot as traditional heaters so high airflow makes humans feel cold. If it’s just putting out air a bit above your body temp then blowing it hard on you it’s not pleasant and warm rather feels a bit chilly but it will warm the room to the setpoint.

Defrost if you run the unit flat out the exterior quickly drops below dewpoint and freezing point so you have to defrost it, this wastes energy. A necessary evil at times but you want to minimize this. Running constantly means your keeping air moving over the coils helping to keep moisture from collecting, your temps won’t be as low so your not below freezing as often.

You could turn the heat function on/off at those set points via automation but frankly you’re not doing your wallet or comfort any favors by doing so. Perfect world the unit is running 24/7 and putting out just enough heat to deal with losses.

Are you looking for something that works with existing switches or replaces them all?

Something like a Zooz you just replace a switch with it’s dimmer and the other with turn the lights on/off to last dimmed level.

Pretty much every dimmer manufacturer has a companion switch that you can install multiples of to many dimmers.

If your running z-wave etc multiple manufactures dimmers and be setup to work together, where you dim one the others go to the same level.

Cost effectively no.

With smart house tech it’s trivial.