A good fitting socket and impact will almost surely break those free. Honestly they don’t really look bad at all. Or a good fitting boxed end wrench and hammer on it. Though the position may be a problem. Penetrant will help I second the 50/50 trans fluid acetone or Kano Kroil stuff works far better than any other I’ve tried.

08 Silverado fyi

Pb blaster soaked every 10 mins for awhile, long ass breaker bar or impact …if bust one then take that route of new but I think they will break

PB blaster, blow torch, and then impact

FYI new and rebuilt calipers usually include brackets. It’s often harder to find just the bracket and it’s nearly the same price or even less.

Pb blaster, heat, pb blaster, heat. I prefer to heat then candle wax myself. A nice 6 point socket and extension bar. You’ll get er

Threads are on the caliper bracket. So even if you break the bolts, the assembly will come off.

I have taken a cheap socket, jammed it on and tacked it with a wire feed welder.

Worked that time.

For a stuck bleeder on a good caliper, I had a small jeweler’s torch, MAPP and oxy, heated it up hot, not enough for cherry red, and the trickle water on it, and the thermal expansion broke it free.

I’d imagine they’d break free. My Ram 1500’s looked like that and with a breaker bar I was able to get them off.

Another thing you could do if they are super rust locked is hit it with pb blaster a couple times and let it really soak in, then use an battery/ air impact on it. The threads are likely perfectly fine it’s just the head that’s locked.

I believe yours are torqued to 139 ft/lbs so they are on there tight.

A 50/ 50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone soak…and patience. They also make sockets you pound on to get better grip if the 6 point doesn’t work. Good luck