Map the L4 and R4 buttons (top back paddle buttons) to mimic or replace the L1 and R1 buttons. This way it’s a more comfortable grip because you don’t have to position your hold for reaching upward.
Then inherently the trackpads are more comfortable and accessible.
I will usually then map the regular L1 and R1 numbers to something like Screenshot. Basically things I’d like to use occasionally but not all the time.
Well the stutter in emulation is usually because of the shader cache building. So the more you play it and encounter objects, the smoother it plays.
In SteamOS 3.5 the SMT bug was fixed. So it is no longer necessary to toggle it.
You may want to ensure you are actually saving the VRAM change. It should be reflecting in the BiOS after you save it, and in the system settings in gaming mode.
So after you check or check the BiOS, look in the gaming mode settings right after to verify on the first boot up.
Steam and “…” buttons to be raised as much as the trackpads or at least a tad more than current so it’s easier to find by feel instead of looking or doing the feel for trackpad edge trick.
USB Port at the bottom so it’s able to be truly docked without having yo still manually connect a cable.
Larger OLED but only within the current form factor. So less or flush bezel. I don’t want the form-factor of the Steam deck to change and make all the accessories obsolete.
USB 4 or something.
LTE/Cellular slot so you can use internet without needing to hotspot or connect to WiFi.
I have a long USB extension I use when playing on my external display so that the Steam Deck is my controller.
(I also cannot go back to playing without access to the dual trackpads)
Which is part of the reason I prefer and always recommend USB-C hubs over Docks. Docks kinda tie your Deck to your desk/display proximity-wise.
You could technically use the extension on the dock’s connector too. But then you just paid “dock” prices for nothing.