OP…. I think a lot of us are trying to refrain from being rude here. But please know…… there are people that drive on dirt and gravel roads and driveways EVERY DAY for YEARS.

Yes, this can lead to some paint chipping underneath. But hey, we don’t eat off the bottom of our cars, right? It’ll be just fine.

I wouldn’t pay Mother Teresa $2,100 to replace pads and rotors on my vehicle. You should go somewhere else for this service, if you aren’t willing/able to do it yourself.

Also, rotors DO NOT always have to be changed out. “Pad slaps” are acceptable if the rotor is in good condition AND still within minimum thickness spec. But they are an easy up-sell item because the owner usually doesn’t know any better. But at your mileage, it’s likely they are not even close to below minimum spec. Unless you’re a mail driver.

If you buy the parts yourself (not at a dealership!!) - OEM VW pads are about $70 for the front. Rotor is about $73 each. Total up front and rear, you’re still less than $500.

Or go with some good Wagner pads for about $30 per set.

Your main mistake here is going to a dealership for a 11 year old vehicle. Unless you (and others) really have no other highly rated mechanics in your area, going to the dealership should be avoided. If your car is still under warranty, only go to the dealership.

If you really are “burning oil”, there’s likely a compression issue. A compression test is very easy and quick.

DO NOT pay someone to clean the outside of your engine in hopes that fixes an oil consumption issue.

Totally agree. With this, you can also get a feel of whether or not beefs exist between techs. Not that I’d recommend intervening. But it’s good to know about.

I think having a meeting with all the techs present could be a good start.

“Guys, I want you to enjoy your job here. What are some things that you feel we’re doing right? What are some things you think we could do better? What are some things that have you considering different employment?”

Don’t make promises to any answers you get. Log them all. Sleep on them. Implement what you can. And be open about what you can’t do.

You absolutely can. You just risk starting a fire at the pump. That risk is very slim though. (But it is why they have warning labels not to do just that).

Everything can be fixed on a car. But if this was rotten enough to break loose, I’d expect the rest of it to fall apart (literally) soon as well.

Any shop with a welder could weld this back together. But they’d be welding incredibly weak metal together. It’s unlikely any shop would do the work. Unless it was some sort of costly full restoration on a classic.

This is an owner’s manual question. Even a mechanic would consult the factory service manual that would say the same thing.

It depends on your car. Which you did not provide.

This locking type is possibly the junkiest of all. They strip really easily. And the shop likely doesn’t want to fork over the $25 to replace it when it strips off.

That shop could 100% remove it. They just don’t want to. And I totally understand that. But if it was my shop, I’d be up front about it and give the customer the option.

If you’re wanting “3500”, Toyota wouldn’t work anyway, simply because they don’t make a heavy duty option. Doesn’t matter what engine they have.

I’m a fan of Rams and Fords. Ford probably has more options with the 4 doors and 8’ beds.

Are you sure you need a 3500? Or is that a status thing?

No diesel? I assume you won’t be pulling/hauling a whole lot besides some basic lumber or something?

100% safe to do.