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10 months ago440 and 920 is my best guess…
without year make model to see where the wires go…
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Cake day: October 25th, 2023
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sent you a private messages with links to the wiring diagrams you will need…
have your mechanic install a kill switch or kill switch and relay…
i don’t know how hyundai powers the fuel pumps…
on single speed fuel pumps… there is a fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse box… could be else where…
a 4 or 5 pin ISO relay… the power wire to the fuel pump is cut… the relay installed the wire from the front goes to relay pins 30 and 86… the wire to the pump goes on 87… pin 85 gets a long wire to a hidden switch… if you are crazy smart you will have that first switch not hooked to ground but to a second switch hidden in the trunk… so you can turn off… one or both to prevent the fuel pump from being powered …
if you use a 5 pin relay… you can use pin 87A to power a horn hidden inside the car…
so many things… which engine… as i don’t see it in my north american parts listing… straight six ? with D jetronic??
does the starter turn the crankshaft when you turn the key??
do you have compression while cranking. sometimes you need to pull a spark plug and use a compression tester…
do you have fuel pump pressure using a fuel injection pressure tester… you will need this one to do CIS on a benz https://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-fuel-injection-service-kit-58817.html
so… does it crank…
do you have compression while cranking…
do you have fuel pressure… does not matter that the pump is new… does it turn on and build pressure at the filter nut when you change it to the fuel pressure test fitting. or at the proper place on the fuel injection metering block.
you also have this site… https://www.benzworld.org/
do you have the D jetronic book… https://w107.pbworks.com/f/DJetronic.pdf
https://www.crutchfield.com/ has the mounting plate. has the OEM radio harness adapter to the universal radio wire colors to splice to your new radio harness…
so many options for car stereos…
only issue… you are likely to have… your 86 may or may not… constant power to the radio memory …
new car stereos use red wire and yellow wire… one is constant power and the other is switched power… i don’t recall as i send my radio installs to a friend…
save all the timing components…
save all the gaskets and bent valves…
small claims court. take lots of photos. put prints in 3 identical photo albums as evidence… one for you… one for the judge … one for the cloyes lawyers in court…
AAA driver refused to tow my customers car home 3 miles when the the thermostat failed and she ask to be towed home. he put water in and said drive it… she melted the engine… i rebuilt engine. she was senior … short wait till small claims court… she won with my help… she got a check for 800 bucks. this was a long time ago… 3 days after she deposited the check… her car was stolen from the street… i had kill switches on it… club on the steering wheel… massive brake pedal lock… must have used a tow truck… i wonder who stole it… could it have been the tow truck driver.
That tends to indicate that there’s a power supply issue between the battery and the fuse box so you might want to see if you can isolate which connection it is by using the voltage drop test across the joints so you’re going to go from like the battery terminal to the wire that goes to the fuse box about an inch from The Ring terminal and then at the other end this inverse of that so the wire strands to the ring terminal and in the ring terminal to the underhood fuse box something something’s a little iffy there it might not be much it might be just the current but you need to prove that if the overall voltage drop that’s changing still not very much
that seems to be the power steering pressure hose…
Huge HINT… when turning the steering wheel to the the end or rotation… release slightly… bringing the RPMs up with the wheel turned to the end causes a surge in power steering fluid pressure above the working pressure of the hose faster than the pressure control valve can move to moderate the pressure…
this causes repeated failures of the hose…
does your OBD2 reader display live data and Graphed data…
get in and look at the O2B1S1 voltage in graph mode…
bring the RPMS up to 2500 and hold the throttle pedal steady… even if the rpms drift slightly… do you have a nice clean waveform… take 10 seconds and slowly return to idle… do you still have a good waveform…
then look at the down stream oxygen sensor voltage O2B1S2 voltage… again at steady throttle 2500… do you have a flat line between 0.6 and 0.7 or a reduced waveform voltage compared to the upstream oxygen sensors…
reduced voltage waveform on the secondary indicates the cat is reducing emission… a really good cat will at 2500 steady throttle put out a flat voltage between 0.6 and 0.7 volts.
the P0420 is indicating the downstream sensor is Not seeing a reduction in emission…
the entire emission control system… from the gas tank to every sensor and component is designed to feed the cat with the exact exhaust gas flow so it can work properly to reduce emissions…
if your upstream oxygen sensors are going wild… you have to figure out what is causing it…
clogged injectors… misfiring… vacuum leaks… air intake leaks . exhaust leaks…
start with all six steps of this test… https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpg
then be sure that during test 5 in the underhood fuse block that you check the voltage drop on fuse F1.6. this fuse supplies power on the Orange/light blue stripe wire to the regulator connector cavity A
please spend the time with test 5 to do all the fuses you can get to in the underhood fuse block
this is only the beginning of your diagnosis…
you are probably going to need an scan tool to see what the computer voltage looks like in the scan tool live data stream… see if that surges also. or if its slow to respond.
please don’t test any other wires plugged into the voltage regulator…
you may want to examine the PCM connector for signs of corrosion… i have run into that on other crown victorias…
the alternator output is controlled by the PCM… so you could have some electrical connection issues…
which function did you blow out…
only the 10 or 20 amp shunt if fused…
motor magazine did a short multimeter test…
https://www.motor1.com/products-services/auto-products/automotive-multimeter/
these Bosch 750 multimeters are just over 200 bucks… Bosch is OTC tools after a buyout… i have not tried one of these…
https://otctools.com/products/750-series-automotive-multimeter
i miss my 1990s OTC mega meter… it grew legs one day…
95% of the time. i can get by with the 25 buck no longer available 20Amp DC harbor freight multimeter. .
this is the test i start with… https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpg
what features do you use mostly…
DC amps…
DC volts…
do you get into milliseconds or duty cycle… pulse width…