A LAN works without the Internet at all. CG-NAT is the internet for you. So anything LAN related is free of cg-nat restrictions.
DHCP could change your internal IP, so it’s nice to have static IPs sometimes.
A LAN works without the Internet at all. CG-NAT is the internet for you. So anything LAN related is free of cg-nat restrictions.
DHCP could change your internal IP, so it’s nice to have static IPs sometimes.
they’re both AC1900 devices. so unless you can get the Asus to work in more of a mesh-mode where one of it’s antennas are dedicated to the upstream/backhaul side you won’t see improvement. NOW, if you can, say with DD-WRT (check your version: https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC68U) then you should be able to get “full duplex” out of it as a repeater, because now it’s a mesh-node not a repeater.
it’s literally call “alternative fuel tax”, and then they say “it’s because it’s heavy and hard on the roads”. sounds like a backpedal to me. Just come out and charge a “heavy vehicle tax”, oh wait, the supercab people that voted you in to keep us in the stone-age would whine about it. boo-hoo. I’m fine with subsidizing the road-taxes because I no longer pay for gas, because it makes sense to me. Don’t drive? don’t pay the tax. Drive? pay them. But to blame vehicle weight is basically calling us EV-ers morons while protecting their delicate voters egos.
That is pretty surprising isn’t it? I do feel it’s more complex than power wires, but not by much. And to be fair I’ve rewired a few ceiling fan/lights in my day or 2-switch light controls and the wording on those instructions makes ZERO sense. “be sure to attach the hot wire to the hot terminal on the fixture” … but the fixture has zero indicators to which side is hot/cold and is symmetric to the drawing. However, one plate is copper and the other is silver (in color), so there IS a difference but what is it? stupid engineers. Don’t say “hot/cold” or “+/-” for a device that can only be identified as “silver/copper”. :p
I recently finished my basement (~150sq.m. / 1500sq.ft.), I’m nerdy so be prepared. I bought a 300m spool of CAT6a, and ran about 13 drops.
I ran (myself) network to about every other power outlet, 1 stud away from the power. And one to my ceiling (central) for a WiFi access point. This is hands down the most important one for me. Super clean looking and powerful WiFi. I also included power and network in 3 closets (never know where I’ll want my NAS) and to the outside corners directly into weather resistant junction boxes so no wire is exposed (cameras). Each of the 3 rooms got 2 (opposing corners), the kitchen, all along the main room wall, and to a built in bookshelf that has become my TV cabinet (receiver/amp + Nvidia Shield feeding to a projector in the main room).
I did not bother with 2 runs everywhere because switches are just too easy and/or WiFi. Heck a basic switch can even be powered over POE so minimal wiring needed. And everything runs back to a “structured media cabinet” housing my fiber-ONT (so I had the ISP move my fiber here), router, switches, and network patch panels for the whole house. Ask the electrician (a low voltage kind) to “terminate to an Ethernet patch panel” so it’s easier for you to use. Also demand that they do NOT staple the wires, and test each for at minimum perfect 1 gigabit performance, probably 10Gb at these ranges.
I did similar, but I got a DC UPS and it’s running: 2 Odroids (like Raspberry pi), a wired router, and a 16 port switch. (edit: as seen here https://ibb.co/album/Jxrb06 )
TalentCell Mini UPS Uninterrupted… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I would step out of the USB / PC realm and look just at DC power supplies. Like this guitar DC/Barrel power source: https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/
NOTE: I just google for “Multi DC power supply” and found that. Point being. I have zero experience with that power supply, but DC power has been around WAY long than USB and it is very well supported across many industries. When it comes to DC, you really only need to look at the Volts too, forget the Amps. I’d say only the Beelink needs to be considered in Watts everything else just V’s.
I would 100% Daisy chain for the average home. Okay maybe not 100%, but what it does is frees up full gig speed across the home while protecting a single gig connection to the router for actual Internet traffic. I would put the most ‘internet needed’ critical things on the first switch and the less critical on the second. If there is zero LAN-LAN stuff is happening (cameras to a recording station, home media server, etc.) Then maybe fork it in parallel mixing the most critical across the switches.
This. I use 1 cable from router into a 16 and then additional switches if the 16 (like a small POE switch). This avoids one extra device for LAN traffic while leaving a full gig just for WAN. Avoiding a bottleneck for actual Internet traffic.
I have a regular UPS for my server+NAS, and a small lithium one (pocket sized) for my low voltage things (basically all my network gear, sans POE). It was inexpensive and works fantastically. The best part was erasing 4 power brick transformers from my network closet and replacing them with just a 5V barrel cable directly to the UPS. I think it’s highest output is 12V which runs my 24-port switch (I think, maybe my router).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP