Rebuilt old 4Runner, feels like it’s missing some HP
I bought a 1994 5speed 4Runner with the old (I think second generation) v6 VZ-E engine. Replaced the heads and head gaskets, exhaust manifolds, timing belt water pump thermostat radiator fuel injectors spark plugs and wires and distributor cap and rotor but the new rotor broke and i put my old one back on. Also I think a few sensors that I broke, can’t remember which 2 on the back of the intake manifold. Checked and replaced air and fuel lines as needed.
I am aware that the engine is not a powerful engine, and it’s my first truck and first manual as well. However I had it before the heads blew, as I was the one that blew them because I was an automotive virgin at the time and didn’t know my radiator had cracked. SO I am pretty positive I’m missing out on some HP because it doesn’t feel as stout.
More Notes: I have attempted to change the fuel filter several times to no avail, that thing is hella froze on there. I had an experienced mechanic help me with the timing belt and distributor cap and we’ve adjusted it, so this is fine. I do get some backfire, just a little sometimes, not sure if that matters.
Edit: I had the factory manual pulled up on my iPad for the process, so my question assumes everything I did was done to specs. I used OEM grade or better all around except with my radiator I guess.
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taking off from a complete stop in second is pretty slow
Why are you not using 1st gear? (rhetorical) The 3VZE engines are anemic enough without lugging it into 2nd. I owned one too.
You test compression with a compression tester (see youtube). Might be able to rent one from your LAPS. You test running rich by watching the fuel trims (if the car’s OBD supports that and you have the diag tool). Otherwise inspect the plugs when you remove them for the compression test. Black/oily/wet plugs are sign of poor combustion and/or rich running, both of which may be confounded by bad spark. Grey color on plugs is normal (more or less). Plenty of youtube and other guides out there for this.
Because you replaced a cracked rotor cap with an old one, how do you know the old one isn’t contributing to the performance problem? Perhaps it might make sense to correct that and any other known issues (you mentioned you broke things) with the car BEFORE trying to diagnose a problem that may indeed be caused or contributed to by said old/worn/broken things.
Did you check for codes using the paperclip method?
The sensors were all replaced. because I had more power before I did all the work, I assume the distributor rotor is not the issue as that’s what I had on there. Thanks for the input, you don’t have to answer but what is OBD and how to check codes with the paper clip method?
OBD = on board diagnostics. Prior to 1996 there was no standard and each car MFR had their own systems.
For your 4runner, there is a pair of pins you can jumper with a paperclip and you can count the flashing lights to determine the code(s), if any.
Google is your friend.
If all of this is still above your head after an hour or two of internet study, then go have a chat with your mechanic. They will know what to do.